What a London Heatwave Is Really Like Without Air Conditioning

It’s early July, and London is in the midst of its third heatwave of the year. The first arrived in late May and brought record-breaking temperatures. The second followed a month later. During that heatwave, the Met Office issued red and amber heat warnings throughout the week.

This third heatwave hasn’t been quite as extreme, but it feels as though it is lingering for longer. Temperatures in London haven’t dropped below 29°C (around 84°F) since Sunday. The forecast suggests there is little relief on the way.

Why 29°C Feels So Hot in London

To people in countries such as the United States, 29°C may not sound especially hot. In many places, temperatures like these are a normal part of summer. In Phoenix, Arizona, where I grew up, summer lows often aren’t lower than 29°C.

The difference is that cities such as Phoenix have infrastructure built for prolonged heat.

That is not generally the case in the UK. Most homes do not have air conditioning, and many buildings retain warmth. Public transport can also become intensely uncomfortable.

The temperature itself is only part of the problem. The lack of escape makes a London heatwave feel so much more oppressive.

The Heat Hits Differently in London

As I mentioned, I grew up in Phoenix, where summers are stupidly hot and the heat lingers well beyond the traditional summer months. Before moving to London for the first time, I was living in Las Vegas — a city only slightly cooler than Phoenix.

So I did not expect London heat to knock me around quite as much as it has, particularly over the past few years. Heatwaves seem to be arriving more often, and instead of lasting a day or two, they now have a habit of settling in.

When you grow up in the desert, you learn how to cope. You dress for the weather, move between air-conditioned spaces, crank up the A/C in the car and avoid being outside during the hottest part of the day.

That is much harder to do in London. Most flats and houses are not air-conditioned, and neither are many smaller shops. I do not drive, so getting around usually means taking the Underground or a bus — neither of which is especially pleasant when temperatures climb.

My friend, who visited London during the last heatwave, noticed the difference too. As he put it, ‘The heat in London — and central Europe more broadly — feels different from the heat in the southwestern United States. People often say it is the humidity rather than the heat, and while that is partly true, it misses a bigger difference. In the dry deserts of California, Nevada and Arizona, direct sunlight is brutal, but the shade can offer some relief. In humid heat, even the shade can feel unbearably hot. The only real escape is air conditioning.”

That is what makes a London heatwave feel so different. It is not necessarily that the temperatures are higher than elsewhere, but that there are so few opportunities to escape them. The heat follows you onto public transport, into shops and, eventually, back home — where the building itself often seems determined to hold onto every last degree.

Keeping the Cat Comfortable

The heat means I spend most of my days indoors with the curtains drawn—more on that later. Coogee, our cat and the bestest boy, takes a different approach. He loves to bask in the sun no matter how hot it gets.

He spends most of the winter pouting because it is too icky to go outside. Once summer arrives, he tends to come in only for food and treats.

This year, I have started bringing him inside when the temperature reaches 30°C. It is a compromise between what he wants and what my anxiety will allow.

He is an older boy — 15 now — and a void. After losing his sister on a very hot day last year, I worry about him constantly. Probably more than is healthy.

Fortunately, Coogee is a pretty good sport about being lured indoors by the sound of his treat container being shaken. He will paw at the locked cat flap and meow in protest for a while, but eventually he gives up and settles down in front of the fan.

Did I mention that he is the bestest of all the boys?

Tips for Managing the Heat

Over the past few years, I have picked up a few tricks for keeping the temperature down inside a house or flat.

One of the most counterintuitive tips came from my former boss — and current friend — who told me to close the windows and shut the curtains or blinds during the day. Then, once the sun has gone down and the air has cooled a little, open everything up and let the evening breeze in. That is, of course, assuming there is a breeze.

When I was living in a flat where some of the windows did not have curtains or blinds, I used a spray bottle to lightly dampen the glass before covering it with aluminium foil. It was not attractive, but it did help block some of the heat.

I have also been known to put a small amount of water in my trusty hot-water bottle, chill it for a couple of hours and take it to bed with me. This is probably not what hot-water bottles were designed for, so check the manufacturer’s instructions before trying it yourself.

Our latest attempt to outsmart the heat is a misting fan, which my partner bought during the last heatwave. It sends out a fine mist of water along with the air and, while it is not quite the same as air conditioning, it has made sitting in front of the fan feel considerably less futile.

Lastly — and I really should not have to say this — staying hydrated is essential. A cold bottle or glass of water feels particularly welcome when you have spent the entire day perspiring.

And despite what some tourists on TikTok seem to believe, the UK does, in fact, have ice.

*Eye roll.*

The Strange Thing About a London Heatwave

The strange thing about a London heatwave is that the temperature rarely tells the whole story. On paper, 29°C or 30°C may not sound particularly dramatic. That is especially true for people who are used to much hotter summers.

But homes, transport and daily routines in London cannot always cope with prolonged heat. After a few days, it quickly becomes exhausting.

There are still things I enjoy about summer in London. I love the long evenings, busy parks and the way everyone makes the most of the sunshine while it lasts.

But the novelty wears off after several days of sleeping badly and hiding behind closed curtains. Planning every movement around the coolest part of the day does not help either.

For now, I will keep the curtains shut and the misting fan running. I will also bring Coogee safely indoors once the temperature climbs too high.

Like most people in Britain during a heatwave, I will continue checking the forecast and hoping for rain.